With its picturesque towns carved into the hillsides, brilliant blue waters below, flowering wisteria, vibrant lemon trees, dramatic cliffs, beautiful beaches, and hidden grottos – the Amalfi Coast has always been a dream destination of mine. Stepping out on our balcony each morning to see all the views of this Mediterranean paradise had me soaking up every second of la dolce vita. Everything from the awe-inspiring natural scenery to the historic sites, vibrant culture, peaceful boat rides, and excellent food made this one of our favorite family trips.
Below is our 4-day itinerary of how we made the most of our time in this gorgeous seaside region of Italy. Next week, I’ll be sharing Part 2 with details for the second half of our trip in Rome.
GETTING AROUND
The closest airport to the Amalfi Coast is Naples Airport (NAP), which is a 1.5 hour drive to the Amalfi Coast, followed by Rome Airport (FCO), which is a 3.5 hour drive. We landed in Rome, and with seven people in our party, we found that the quickest and most convenient way to get to our home rental was by hiring a private car transfer service (aka chauffeur-driven rides). We used Sorrento Silver Car which had excellent reviews and was very professional and accommodating. By request, their van came equipped with car seats, and we made stops for lunch and a visit to Pompeii during our initial transfer from the airport. We also used them to get to and from our Positano-Amalfi-Ravello Shore excursion (see ATTRACTIONS below).
To get around to nearby towns like Positano and Capri, we used ferries, which are quick, easy, and inexpensive. We also used taxis to visit Amalfi and when the ferries were no longer in service. Both options are faster and more convenient than public buses – which are often very full and have standing room only.
LODGING
We used Airbnb.com to book a rental home in Conca Dei Marini – check out this post for more details.
ATTRACTIONS
Guided Tour of Pompeii
After our morning arrival into Rome Airport, we decided to stop in Pompeii on our way to the Amalfi Coast. Pompeii is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Italy’s most iconic and visited places. Our car service arranged a private 2-hour guided tour of the ruins of Pompeii – this was a must for us! Unless you buy the audio guides and have ample time to explore, there is very little information within Pompeii and the site is so expansive, we would have missed the highlights without a tour guide.
We really enjoyed how our guide brought the city to life with history and tales of Pompeii’s past as we visited sites like the Roman Forum, a theater, ancient fast food restaurants, a cemetery, the plaster death casts, main street, bakery, and even the supermarket. Note that maneuvering strollers in this ancient city was slightly difficult due to some of the narrow and uneven roads, but after a long day of traveling the strollers were necessary for the kids (and us).
Cost: €130 for the private guided walking tour, €15 per person for the entrance fee
Ruins of Pompeii, a well-preserved city with fascinating history
Positano-Amalfi-Ravello Shore Excursion
Since it was our first time in the Amalfi Coast and we only had four days to see it all, we did a tour to squeeze in as much as we could. Our 9 hour excursion was provided by Sorrento Silver Star and featured stops at Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello. Our second day started at 9 AM with our driver picking us up from our home rental in a large air-conditioned van, with a car seat and booster seat already installed for the kids.
We started in Positano, where we spent 1.5 hours browsing the boutiques for gifts, walking along the marina and beach of Positano, eating delicious gelato from Buca di Bacco, and visiting the famous Moorish tiled dome of the Church of Santa Maria Assunta. There are quite a number of stairs throughout this city, making it difficult to get around with strollers.
Views outside the Church of Santa Maria Assunta in Positano (top and bottom)
Kisses from Positano (left) + inside Church of Santa Maria Assunta (right)
We continued our tour to Amalfi where we spent 2.5 hours enjoying lunch by the water at Lido Azzurro Ristorante (see RESTAURANTS below), visiting the Piazza Duomo (the main square of Amalfi), admiring the stunning Saint Andrew’s Cathedral, and eating more gelato from Gelateria Al Corso. Luckily, the only stairs we encountered were at the entrance of Saint Andrew’s Cathedral, so strollers weren’t a problem.
Our final stop was at Ravello, where we spent 1.5 hours exploring the beautiful gardens and sculptures of Villa Rufolo. We ended our day by sipping on drinks and eating more gelato at Al San Domingo. I wouldn’t recommend bringing a stroller to Ravello Villa due to the many staircases we encountered.
Cost: €350 for the full day tour, €7 per person for The Ravello Villa entrance fee
Exploring the gardens of Villa Rufolo (top) + views from inside Villa Rufolo (bottom)
Amalfi Lemon Experience
I’d been looking forward to this one of a kind experience after hearing so many stellar reviews, and was especially excited for my parents since my dad is an avid gardener and my mom loves all things lemon. To start our third day, we took a 15 minute taxi ride into Amalfi and met our tour guide at the Cathedral Square. He gathered all 7 of us + 2 strollers into a golf cart and drove a quick 5 minutes to the lemon grove.
Fun-filled day of playing, eating, and learning about lemons
On Me: Pink Floral Bustier Dress (on sale!), small // On Lea: Printed Ruffle Dress
The private 2 hour tour starts at the Museum of Rural Culture Arts and Crafts. Our guide shared the history of the farm and the family, while showing us the tools they used and some memorabilia. We left our strollers at the museum and headed to the store front, which featured limoncello being bottled.
From there we went uphill, into what seemed like never ending hills of lemon trees. There, we learned about the process of growing organic lemons, the difficulties of farming, and how the farm has grown into what it is today. The tour ended with a slice of delicious lemon cake, lemonade, and limoncello. The owners take so much pride in their land and it really shows in the products they produce. We ended up buying several bottles of limoncellos for ourselves and as gifts. I only wish the lemons could be exported to the US – I don’t think I’ve ever tasted a better one!
Cost: €40 per person for a private tour, €25 per person for a classic tour
Spiaggia Grande
This trip wouldn’t have been complete without going to one of the many iconic pebbled beaches of the Amalfi Coast. Spiaggia Grande (Positano’s main beach) is most recognizable by the rows of beautiful umbrellas and is one of the liveliest, cosmopolitan beaches on the Amalfi Coast. After our lemon tour, we took a 30 minute ferry ride from Amalfi to Positano and headed to the beach, which is directly to the right of the marina. We arrived late in the afternoon and were pleasantly surprised by the lack of crowds. The beach is beautiful, clean, and offers a perfect panoramic view of the town. We spent an hour or two relaxing on a rented sunbed and enjoying a dip in the crystal-clear water.
Cost: €22 for an all-day sunbed and umbrella rental
Positano Sunset Cruise
We capped off our day with an amazing, private 1.5 hour sunset cruise with Blue Star Positano. Right next to Spiagga Grande, we walked to the Blue Star information desk, and were led to our yacht a few steps away to meet our captain. We climbed aboard and were immediately greeted with prosecco for the adults and juice for the kids before setting sail. Our captain was very friendly, providing local insights and delicious little snacks and cookies as we slowly cruised around the coast. It was so relaxing and fun – definitely a welcome break from the crowds. The views from the water were breathtaking and the perfect weather combined with a beautiful sunset added to a great family experience. The kids enjoyed the open breeze at the front of the yacht and had fun sitting with the captain in the driver’s seat – the highlight of their trip.
Cost: €290 for private Sunset Cruise, €250 if paying with cash
Chasing the sunset by boat – enjoyed by all ages!
Boat Tour of the Island of Capri
On our last day in the Amalfi Coast, we took a 1 hour ferry ride to Capri, where we wandered and explored all morning. Afterwards, our family generously offered to babysit while Niu and I enjoyed a 3 hour private boat tour around Capri.
We went to the Capri port where we were led to our “gozzo” (traditional wooden boat) and met our amazing captain. He took us to the famous Blue Grotto – seeing the glowing blue water was worth the 30 minute wait to get a close up look. From there, we traveled every nook and cranny of the coastline and visited other caves and grottos as our captain pointed out landmarks and provided little bits of trivia about the island. My favorite stop was the Green Grotto – the water is a beautiful emerald green and utterly mesmerizing. Unlike the Blue Grotto, I was also able to take a quick swim. The vibe was very relaxed, and we enjoyed sipping on some prosecco we brought along while taking in Capri’s beauty from the water. It’s definitely the best way to see Capri!
Cost: €240 for private Capri tour
Inside the Blue Grotto (left) + picture at the Heart Cave (right)
Taking a dip at the Green Grotto
RESTAURANTS
Cantina Del Vesuvio
We stopped here for lunch before our tour of Pompeii. Upon arrival, we were treated with a guided walking tour of the olive and grape vineyard. It was was wonderful learning about the history and wine making process of the restaurant before experiencing it.
We sat at the outdoor patio under a shaded tree, overlooking the vineyard while enjoying the tasting menu – a delicious antipasto appetizer of salami, provolone cheese, “casatiello” (a savory bread), bruschetta with heirloom Piennolo tomatoes, olives (so good, we kept asking for refills!), and roasted aubergines on baked bread. We also ordered the spaghetti (made with durum wheat flour and tossed with a sauce made from heirloom Piennolo tomatoes and basil) and the pastiera napolitana (a traditional dessert featuring sweetened ricotta, candied fruit, and boiled wheat berries). Everything we ate was so fresh and amazing, even the olive oil and vinegar was the best I’ve ever had!
To complement our meal, we added a wine tasting. There are two kinds of wine tastings to choose from – classic and superior. We couldn’t choose one, so we tried both! They were delicious and plentiful – each tasting served 6 different wines. Their featured wine, Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco DOP, was so light and refreshing that we bought a bottle to bring home, in addition to some olive oil and red wine vinegar. The gift shop has lots of nicely boxed sets and allows you to mix different wines in a case, which can be shipped to your house if you don’t want to carry it with you.
Recommendations: My absolute favorite was the spaghetti, but everyone loved the tasting menu – antipasto appetizer and pastiera napolitana. I would recommend pairing your meal with either of the wine tastings. You should also definitely buy a bottle of red wine vinegar to take home!
Lido Azzurro Ristorante
This wonderful Amalfi restaurant is located right on the water, by the marina. We enjoyed our lunch on the covered patio, overlooking an amazing view. Our driver said the seafood was the best and it didn’t disappoint! The seafood risotto was perfectly cooked with a fabulous deep flavor and the catch of the day with lemon sauce was so simple, yet so perfect – juicy and succulent sea bass with a rich and creamy lemon sauce. We also had the linguini with clams and pomodoro spaghetti, which were very tasty as well. The staff was very friendly and we loved the relaxed atmosphere and delicious food.
Recommedations: Seafood Risotto and Catch of the Day in Lemon Sauce
Michel’angelo
We found this cute restaurant on Yelp – it’s a bit hidden from the main plaza, but we wanted to try it out based on the highly rated reviews – and we’re so glad we did! Niu ordered his favorite dish of the trip, Gnocchi alla Sorrentina, which is light and fluffy homade gnocchi, covered in a velvety sauce of mozzarella, parmesan, basil and tomato puree. We also ordered the Scialatielli Michel’angelo, which is homemade scialatielli pasta with flavorful mixed seafood and fresh cherry tomatoes. This was easily the best meal we had in the Amalfi Coast.
Recommendation : Gnocchi alla Sorrentina and Scialatielli Michel’angelo. The mozzarella bar and packed picnic package also caught our eye.
Have you been to Italy? What was your favorite city?
